Friday, December 22, 2006

Marathon training diary no1: The beastly flab


For most of the last 10 years I've regarded myself as on the upper side of reasonably fit. I was rudely awakened from this agreeable fantasy by two events. The first (during our biannual Thames rowing trip) was Chris's gleeful pointing out of my love handles. The second was the rather more painful experience of being beaten by LOTS of women over the Open University Tour course. My ego was deflated and I have now started humbly from the bottom again in my new guise of Mr Lardarse.

I have set myself the goal of doing a 3hrs 30min marathon in 2007; that would be a Personal Best (PB) and would represent a major improvement on the shambling wreck I became by summer 2006. London Marathon apparently doesn't want me (the swine) so I have done what all good Englishman should do when shunned by their country. I have gone continental and applied for the Paris Marathon.

Technical and administrative shenanigans aside I have also put in place a regime. For now this revolves around a minimum of two runs per week. My Monday run is a long leisurely affair around Willen Lake. My Thursday run is a somewhat more frantic 'hills session' with Marshall Milton Keynes AC. These all seem to be going well. I've certainly graduated from last to not last over the last (damn) few weeks and I'm hoping soon to qualify for the Ladies Senior 70s team.

In the New Year I'm hoping to stitch in a 'speed' session to get my old muscle fibres twitching like a live-baked maggot but one thing at a time eh?

Open University Relays 2005

It is a commonly repeated maxim that ‘women weaken legs’
but the events of Tuesday the 2nd of March indicated that I might
now actually have the legs of a woman. The Open University Relays
are traditionally held on the coldest, wettest and most unpleasant day
of the year and today was no exception. Braving the mud, cold and
occasional sleet, fifty two intrepid teams of four gathered in front of the
OU sports pavilion. My team, ably captained by Patrina and led-off by
James looked like a cert to complete the 4.4mile relay in a sub thirty minute
time. Glory was ours for the taking.

James put in a stirling performance. Setting his jaw in an attitude of manly competition he lined-up with the first-leg lunatics in deceptively casual attire. Letting the competitors who were mad enough to be wearing vests go ahead he settled into a strong even pace. His hat made him look like a smurf – but an athletic smurf. Seven minutes and fifteen seconds later he was back to hand over to our unknown quantity. Paul is ‘long-of-leg’ but had missed our training run. Was he the Khalid Khannouchi of the team or the Bernie Winters – we just didn’t know. Perhaps he was a Bernie Khannouchi but he certainly recorded a very respectable eight minutes one second before Patrina set off on ‘the captain’s leg’. By this time the field had strung-out and Patrina did a fine job of keeping focused and keeping us on pace. Just over nine minutes later she was haring through the finish (looking remarkably composed) to set me off on the anchor leg.

I felt the weight of expectation on my shoulders. I’d run 6:32 in 2004 and I hoped to get close to that again. I shot out of the start gate like a bat-out-of-hell (I’ll be gone when the morning comes you know) and almost immediately reeled in the chap in front of me. Glory was surely just a few minutes away. The next chap in front was losing ground and I could almost hear the Chariots of Fire theme. Then it all went wrong. There was no power in the hams; no spring in the Achilles; no lightness of foot. I was a one gear Charlie and that gear was ‘slow-forward’. Not until I could see the tape did I find the reserves. Too late to mine them, I made up what time I could to finish in seven minutes twenty six seconds.

Not for us the glory of silverware or the thirty minute mark. And why? Because glory is not given but earned. Over the winter I’ve spent too much time on wine, women and pies and too little ‘in the zone’. My ball of light grew flabby and humiliation was the price of my sloth. (How much is a sloth by the way?)

Our combined team time was 31:46 and that of our ‘A’team (Helen, Sue, Mark and Sharon) 39:39.


Gary Nelmes

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Gareth's wine extravaganza

GP has been educating us all in the mystical art and lore of wine. Sadly I don't remember much from our visit to Chateau Prior. I may have been slightly sloshed. For those (like the Bishop of Southwark) who don't remember much about the evening here are the Prior's notes.

WineGrapeBasic InfoNotes on the Night
Loosen Bros, Riesling, 2005Riesling, Germany Crisp, light wine with refreshingly low alcohol (you can drink it all day without feeling groggy). Perfect for sipping through a lazy summer afternoon.Slightly sweet (but not enough to be a problem), light and a good palate cleanser. Slightly minerally (in a good way).
Gaspard de Thaumassiere, Sancerre, 2005Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley This one’s on the recommendation of the oddbins people and I’ve not tried it before. I’d imagine it tastes like a young gazelle leaping over the mountain streams. Either that or like a Sauvignon Blanc (normally flower/appley/sharp minerally).People were divided between liking the crispness and thinking that it didn’t taste of anything. Definite sharp acidic edge, like biting into a cooking apple. Colder climate in this case equals less sugar and more acidity.
Vincent Girardin, Mersault, 2003Chardonnay, BurgundyThe first of two chardonnays. Forget everything you love or hate about pureed-oak new world chardonnay – these are the genuine article. Nutty buttery – compare with the Chablis to see the subtleties of both at their best.Bone dry but still creamy. Vanillary but not overpoweringly oakey. Much bigger in the mouth than the sancerre – viscous (look at the legs) due to higher alcohol.
Verget “Vaillons”, Chablis 1er Cru, 2002Chardonnay, Burgundy Dry, creamy, buttery vanilla. Magnificent – could almost turn me into a regular white drinker. Restrained oak is the key here (vanilla doesn’t get better with volume).Buttery verging on vegetal. A definite love or hate reaction – some people didn’t like at all. Very subtle compound flavours, length & depth.
Verget “Vaillons”, Chablis 1er Cru, 2002Chardonnay, Burgundy Dry, creamy, buttery vanilla. Magnificent – could almost turn me into a regular white drinker. Restrained oak is the key here (vanilla doesn’t get better with volume).Buttery verging on vegetal. A definite love or hate reaction – some people didn’t like at all. Very subtle compound flavours, length & depth.
Bouchard Pere et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2001Pinot Noir, Burgundy“I forget the name of the town, I forget the name of the girl, but the wine…was Chambertin” – much lighter than the Cabernet/Syrah/Merlot style of reds, this is a scaled-down (and affordable) version of [probably] the most elegant red wine on the planet. Like candle-lit sex while Beethoven’s 7th Symphony (2nd movement, naturally) plays in the background.
Some disagreement over whether or not it really did taste as described on the left (maybe Rachmaninov’s 2nd piano concerto rather than Beethoven’s 7th symphony?). Superb – still on the ascendant and slightly tannic, but beautifully rounded and smooth.
M Chapoutier “Belleruche”, Cotes de Rhone, 2004Grenache (95%) plus 5% other permitted grapes, RhoneBig young red with knobs on – the first of two Rhone reds. With concentration and a bit of autosuggestion you’ll probably be able to make out a distinct cherry smell. Subtly tannic but not overly astringent – hence younger-drinking than many other wines from the region. Initially got a “wow” from many people, but quickly disintegrated into unbalanced tannins and a distinct lack of length. Personally I found this one disappointing on the night, and not much chance of ageing well either. Would make good gravy though.
Paul Jaboulet Aine “Domaine de Thalabert”, Crozes-Hermitage, 2000Syrah (“Shiraz”), Rhone The best example of syrah in this price bracket from anywhere in the world . A classic, full-bodied, elegant Northern Rhone red. This is the style that industrial new world supermarket shiraz gave up trying to emulate years ago.The first wine to get a unanimous thumbs-up. I’ve drunk this many times but it never ceases to delight – could happily age for another 15+ years but wonderfully drinkable now.
Grant Burge “Shadrach”, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000Cabernet Sauvignon, AustraliaFlagship Cabernet Sauvignon wine from one of the top Barossa Valley (Australian) producers. I’ve not tasted it before, so blame Neillsen if it’s rubbish. Should be fascinating to compare with the Merlot-dominated St Emilion (all new world Cabernets have an Oedipus complex about Bordeaux reds).The most popular red by some margin. Fruity, big, oaky. Personally I found the oak too much, but that’s just a matter of preference, and this is nonetheless a very good example of new world C-S. Maybe I’m just exhibiting sour grapes…
Clos Canon, St Emilion Grand Cru Classe, 2001Merlot (75%) and Cabernet Franc (25%), BordeauxSecond wine of Chateau Canon (a top tier right bank Bordeaux). High proportion of Merlot makes for younger drinking than more CS-dominated left bank clarets (because less astringent than CS). Nonetheless, complex tannins and superb balance make for a properly interesting wine.For some this was a let-down after the previous oomph, though a few preferred it. Had opened up nicely after 6 hours in the decanter, with balanced tannins carrying a payload of complex fruit and smoke flavours. Thumbs up.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Cocktail do


I'm suffering just a little this morning. Last night's cocktail do featured the regular gin-based suspects plus some more exotic snook moisteners. The Gin Slings worked well (as did the Vodka Slings) but I recommend less rather than more lemon juice.

The Singapore Slings have a dual character (they taste like health food and will floor a rhino). I think the biggest success of the evening was the Pink Lady. It was very funny to see the MEN drinking Pink ladies from tiny little frosted Champagne glasses.

I failed to pick up on Emma's sarcasm about the Sangrita so I made her a jug full. She drank it bless her.

Gin Sling
2 oz gin
juice of 1/2 lemons
1 tsp powdered sugar
1 tsp water
1 twist orange peel


Dissolve powdered sugar in mixture of water and juice of lemon. Add gin. Pour into an old-fashioned glass over ice cubes and stir. Add the twist of orange peel and serve.

Singapore sling
30ml gin
7.5ml Bénédictine
15ml cherry brandy
7.5ml Cointreau or Triple sec
120ml Pineapple juice
15ml fresh lime juice
10ml grenadine
dash of Angostura bitters

Garnish: maraschino cherry, pineapple chunk, and orange slice

Pink Lady
1 oz gin
1 tsp grenadine syrup
1 egg white
(I'm pretty sure there was also lime juice)



Sangrita
100cl tomato juice
48cl fresh orange juice
5 teaspoons clear honey
9cl fresh lime juice
pinch salt
1 chili, finely chopped
half teaspoon white onion, finely chopped
ground black pepper
10 drops Worcestershire sauce

Instructions
Pour all ingredients into a mixing bowl. Stir well. Place in the refrigerator to chill for about two hours. Then strain into a large glass pitcher. Serve in wine glasses.

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Nelmes Institute of Science Conference and Gala Dinner

Slug Experiment

The raw stats are:
Unprotected non-alcoholic beer: 4 slugs
Egg shell protected beer: 7 slugs
Copper wire protected beer: 11 slugs
Unprotected beer: 12 slugs

Conclusions
Marrying these results with those of my earlier experiments I conclude that egg shells give a small but enduring protection against slugs (so long as the shells are not dispersed by watering) while copper wire gives a strong but short lasting protection (possibly due to oxidization).

The presence of alcohol seems to increase attraction and also to change the nature of the corpses. The slugs in the alcohol-free beer were smoother and appeared to have drowned rather than been killed by an active agent leeching into the skin.

Further experiments
I would be interested to compare fresh wire with tarnished wire.

Artichoke Experiment
Over 50% of those present perceived a significant change in the taste of water after eating globe artichokes.

Methylated Spirits Experiment
Methylated Spirits cannot be filtered through bread.

Helium Experiment
Inhaling helium and reciting Mary Had A Little Lamb is indeed still funny.

Coke Fountain/Bomb
Spectacular effects can be achieved using a bottle of coke with a drilled lid, a paper clip and mint Mentos. I estimate the jet (from 2 1.5mm holes) at around 5m. However, the gas released from a bottle containing 4 Mentos was not sufficient to explode the bottle when an undrilled cap was used.

Grape/Microwave Experiment
A grape (cut equatorially and lightly dried) will smoke and burn violently when placed in the 'hot spot' of a domestic microwave. (The microwave still works by the way.)

Knotted Bin liner Experiment
A cheap alternative for the Queen's birthday fireworks can be achieved by suspending a bin liner (knotted at regular intervals) from a high place and lighting the bottom.

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Oxford Town & Gown 10k

The Town and Gown 10km fun run is an annual event run around the leafy lanes and parks of Oxford. The course changes slightly every year but essentially it is based in North Oxford around the University Parks. I had been meaning to enter for a couple of years but hadn't got round to it. This year I had the extra incentive of having goaded Gareth into doing it. Indeed, it transpired that a lot of my friends had also entered.

The morning began with a baking bonanza. Scones and speciality preserves have long been regarded as the breakfast of champions and Chris and I ate like world-beaters before heading off through the parks to the start. Anyone familiar with The Archers will know what I mean when I say that the commentator was more Linda Snell than John Motson. She was low on clichés and 'the boys gave 110%' and high on 'marvellous', 'super' and shrill piping. Still, it was in keeping with the middle class, white, Home Counties nature of her audience. The event, despite having over 2000 runners, had a distinct feeling of a Sidcup church fete about it.

The start was very well organised with 'estimated finish time' markers indicating where you might want to stand. Sadly nobody took a blind bit of notice. There were lycra racing snakes at the back and pigs in trainers at the front. It is a wonder that nobody got trampled to death. Apparently, one such porcine individual reminded one of the aforesaid reptiles that it was "a FUN run" as he attempted to pass. With a Woosteresque wit as sharp as a rapier he retorted "get out of the way you C*NT". Once the 'gun' had sounded (about 10:30) and the leading group of mega fauna and had been chased down by the pursuing snakes, things became much more civilised.

Chris and I (wily old stagers that we are) had started in the 40-45minute pen. Too far forward for all but the most wilfully stupid heifers and too far back for the hardcore we stomped on at a good springy pace. We ran together for the first third and in the same vicinity for most of the race.

It became clear that the course was going to be flat (which aids speed) and convoluted (which doesn't). The first section (past Keble, down towards Linacre, and around the parks) involved a fair few narrowing sections and bends. The second section, which took in St. Giles, Broad Street and a further (longer) circuit of the parks proved a little faster. Indeed several of my friends ran faster second 5km sections.

Despite my recent birthday I was feeling pretty fit and I dragged myself past a few friends from Headington Road Runners. However, pride cometh before a fall and there were at least 2 ladies several years my senior who I simply could not catch. The effort of trying left me VERY relieved to see the 500m-marker approach. By sheer good luck I had paced myself quite well and gasped over the line in approx. 42:45 (official time 43:03). That left me 203rd (from 2100) behind the winner who finished in a disgracefully fast 31:48.

Everyone (Chris, Duncan, Jackie, Tim, Gareth, Caroline, Judy, Steve, Tim and the Sarah) recorded pretty creditable times. The other Sarah (dressed as a Mexican carrying a bucket) collected loads of money for charity and was therefore exempt from the need for speed.

Special congratulations go to Gareth who got in well under the hour having overcome an unequalled capacity for beer, given-up smoking and undergone an emergency sex-change operation that allowed him to run on a borrowed GIRLS number.

I think Mr Derbyshire and Mr Green owe at least £10 each to charity. They said it could not be done!

Lausanne 10k

HERE COMES THE SOLEIL
Lausanne is the San Francisco of Switzerland, a handsome city rising in a series of tiers above the blue waters of Lac Léman. Held as part of the city’s yearly ‘Festival du Soleil’, the fun run always attracts thousands of entrants from Switzerland and further afield. The event actually consists of three races held over courses of 4km, 10km and 20km. Despite our best efforts, we couldn’t enter the 4km race, due to the disgracefully ageist reason that it was only for kiddies. So, after having a tantrum, we duly entered the shorter of the ‘adult’ events. It could have been much worse. The 20km course was not just twice as long but also a rather hillier affair, looping up through the old town and past the gothic cathedral perched on a spur some 150m higher than the lake. The 10km route was mostly set in Ouchy, Lausanne’s gorgeous lakefront district, and included a couple of short, sharp inclines but nothing too vertiginous. I was motivated by the prospect of a free T-shirt with a sporty/silly slogan, for which item I am a perennial sucker – I still haven’t forgiven Suzie for not allowing me to buy myself one with the caption “Nobody Knows I’m A Lesbian”.

ITS NOT THE WINNING…
Lausanne boasts the moniker of ‘Olympic Capital’ and is home to the International Olympic Committee, the Olympic Museum (which is surprisingly dull, apart from the high jump exhibit, which is astounding) and numerous sporting bodies. Aptly, all the races were to finish in the stade Pierre-de-Coubertin, named after the founder of the modern Olympic games and the man who popularised that phrase so beloved of also-rans (i.e losers), “the most important thing is not to win but to take part”. I say ‘popularised’, because he actually lifted the words from a service performed at the 1908 games by Bishop Ethelbert (a fine name – Jon and Zee take note) Talbot, who concluded: “the essential thing is not to have conquered but to have fought well”. It turns out that M. Coubertin also nicked the other phrase for which he is famous, namely the Olympic motto “Citius, Altius, Fortius” (Swifter, Higher, Stronger), from another clergyman, Father Henry Didon. Still, the iconic Olympic flag, with its five interconnecting rings, was all his own work and he did give the world its greatest sporting spectacle (apart from West Country cheese-rolling, obviously).

PREPARATION, PREPARATION, PREPARATION
Our pre-race dietary regimen, as recommended by Paula Radcliffe, consisted of maigret de canard followed by beignet de pommes, washed down by a fruity bottle of the local red, Côte de Vernaux. Additional carbo-loading took the form of grandes bières at, er, that epitome of Lausannois chic, ‘Le King Size’ (single women, and Chris, may be interested to know that the barmen all sport slinky red kilts). All in all, its amazing how Paula stays so thin.

THE NEED FOR SPEED
I’m quite a nippy sprinter, especially around dinner time, but distance running has never been my thing. An appropriate comparison can be seen in many of the Fred Bassett cartoons. Fred is always to be found at the back of the pack – his legs are pumping, his ears are flapping in the breeze, but somehow all this effort never translates into sustainable speed. Thus it was that the start gun found Suzie (also firmly in the enthusiastic rather than elite category) and I lurking furtively at the back of the densely packed crowd. However, this cowardice took on the air of cunning strategy during the race, as we found ourselves overtaking (similarly slow) people for the length of the course; a nice morale booster. All the entrants were cheered on by the literally thousands of spectators who lined the course for its entirety. The hordes of children shouting “A-llez! A-llez!” and holding their hands out for ‘high fives’ (or low fives, depending on their age and stature) were particularly enthusiastic. The sun, as promised in the Festival du Soleil PR, also put in a blazing appearance and the whole atmosphere was amazing.

IT IS A TRUTH, UNIVERSALLY ACKNOWLEDGED, THAT THE BEST DISTANCE RUNNERS ARE ETHIOPIAN
For the record, the 20km event was won, for the second year in a row, by 21 year-old Ethiopian Tolossa Chengere in a time of 1 hour and 2 minutes (note for 10km tail-enders: he was the small dark blur which passed you at warp factor 9). The women’s event, in contrast, was won by a 43 year-old, Elisabeth Kreig, who described herself as “une ancienne”, in a time of 1 hour and 17 minutes. Knocking off a couple of minutes for faffing and general gridlock at the start, my time for the 10km was 49 minutes dead and Suzie came home in a smidge under an hour (good for us but glacial compared to the winning times of 31:40 for men and 38:30 for women, respectively). In total, some 12,400 people crossed the line, to be rewarded with garish isotonic drinks, medals and, of course, those all-important t-shirts.


Nick Harris (April 2004).

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I would like to make it clear that I am no athlete. However, after leaving university in 1996 I realised that I was going to have to do some form of exercise to ward off middle age and boredom. (Members of the Blackwell football team will testify that this vocation was never going to be soccer.) Having spent the whole of my student rowing career weaselling out of club runs (amazing how often I'm ill on a Thursday) it was to running that I turned.

Since then I have finished two 10km races, one ten mile race, two half marathons, two marathons and two Olympic distance triathlons. I have also been a member of both Headington Road Runners and Marshall Milton Keynes Athletics club. I enjoy running on a fairly regular basis with the club and various friends. Along the way I have found that it can actually be fun. Sadly I’m still not very good at it.



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Rafting in Snowdonia


The rafting trip was conceived as a departmental get together for our marketing department. I couldn't have believed that it would turn out so well. The whole weekend (which included an ascent of Snowdon) was a huge laugh and I think everyone got something out of it.

The National White Water Centre is near Bala in North Wales and is set in some truly lovely countryside. As we made our way down the A5 the sky was cloudy and I had a horrible feeling it was going to rain. We arrived an hour early due to Matthew's fantastic navigation and bolstered our spirits (and energy levels) with a whole host of fried food and MSG laden snacks. The sun came out and spirits were visibly lifted.

Sitting out on the patio we watched lots of Kayakers in their unfeasibly short boats (how do they get their legs in?) taking turns to battle against the raging torrent and dodge rafts full of accountants and data processors as they hurtled unannounced round the corner shouting 'you are very manoeuvrable'. At least one young lad wasn't manoeuvrable enough and got swatted out of the way.

A few minutes later Matthew turned up waving a clipboard. He divided us into two groups of five and we foolishly signed the 'it isn't your fault if we die' disclaimer...


Now it was time for the real humiliation to start. The water in Snowdonia is cold at the best of times, in March it is VERY cold - consequently we had to wear wetsuits. Now I don't know whether you've ever worn a wetsuit but if you have you will realise that almost nobody looks good in one. I, for instance, looked like badly knotted liquorice. Even Duncan, who normally has the looks of an NBC anchorman crossed with some obscure member of a boy-band, looked a right pillock in his. The wet suits were underscored with some dreadful rubber duck feet (Rachael's being easily the funniest) and topped off with a sort of unglamorous ice hockey helmet. It is difficult to say who looked the worst in the helmets but mine made me look like I was mostly face while Amanda's slipped down and covered her eyes.

As dreadful as these outfits sound I think they should be compulsory office wear. Any tendency towards pomposity and self-importance would be immediately expunged leaving behind only love and joy. (Try taking yourself seriously when you look like something nasty that got left behind on the slab at a whaling station.)

Finally our turn to raft came and we were loaded into a minibus that smelled like a mouldy cave. Driven by our allegedly handsome host we travelled a mile or so up a narrow road to the head of the river. (I was just about to order a pint of London Pride and plate of Nachos when I realised that it wasn't the Head of the River I was used to.) Our instructors oversaw the unloading of the rafts and commenced a safety briefing.

Any of us who still had romantic notions of a raft as something that Robinson Crusoe might use were now enlightened. The centre uses large heavy gauge, self-bailing, inflatable rafts, which I assume are pretty much unsinkable. Sadly however they are not unfalloutofable so we were briefed on what commands would be used, what they meant, and how much we would regret it if we didn't do what we were told.

With that we slipped the raft down the ramp into the water and got in - jamming our feet under various thwarts as instructed. We were off. Matthew and I were immediately aware of a primary reason why being at the front is not a good place to sit (we had to sit with our feet in 4 inches of freezing water). However, the first bit of the river seemed quite tame. We were soon paddling forwards and backwards at our instructor's command and the raft seemed to do what it was told. However, as soon as we entered the rough water it appeared that neither we nor our guide was fully in control.

We shot the first rapid going sideways. This sent a modest amount of water down our right sides. We then jammed firmly on a rock and had to wriggle and bounce in order to get the raft afloat. We had just about got ourselves straight when we entered the 'Ski Slope' . It was at this point that I realised that going straight had its disadvantages. We shot down the ramp like a greased weasel in a drainpipe and smashed into a wall of water coming the other way. It arched over Matthew and knocked the breath out of us. It was fantastic. This was only the first of the eight runs that the boats made between them and each one left somebody with a particular memory. The objective level of danger may have been quite low but the exhilaration was quite high.

Some tips for those wishing to raft:

· The National White Water Centre (Canalofan Tryweryn) provides a good professional service with a reassuring emphasis on safety (www.ukrafting.co.uk)
· If you go elsewhere check what your venue provides before you set off (you might need footwear)
· Don't worry about the weather forecast - you are going to get wet anyway
· Take something thermal or a light fleece to go under your wetsuit (this is what the guides wear)

Porthmadog to Holyhead

Porthmadog to Holyhead
Statistics: 68 miles, Maximum speed unrecorded, 10 beers

I awoke at about 7am to one of Dave's thunderous farts. The Hancock HB from day two was still seemingly doing its evil work. I knew that this was going to be a very long day. The Patron produced excellent scrambled eggs and beans and I supplemented them with a bucket of grapefruit segments, cereal, three cups of tea and a humbug. Dave replaced a perfectly good inner tube and (some time after we knew it) we were off. Early cloud was once again burning off as the sun rose in the sky. We repassed the delights of Porthmadog and shamelessly took the A497 to Criccieth. We had a photo session in front of the castle then rejoined the 'B' road route as far as Pant Glas where we once again opted for some 'A' road action. Dave is a bit of a girl when it comes to traffic so we headed back to the cycle route pretty quickly thereafter. To be fair it was a fantastic surface and we were clocking 21mph before we knew it. We fairly steamed into Caernarfon for lunch. The Palace Vaults provided masses of food at a pretty good price. Sadly I took advantage and ate my way through a Yorkshire pudding full of sausages and onion gravy, a pint of Stella and an apple pie and custard. Dave had cottage pie, lager and festival of onion rings. All this was eaten in the shadow of what is possibly my favourite Welsh castle.

Getting out of town, in a freshening breeze, proved a little tricky, as all the signage seemed to have disappeared. However, we finally found the way north and about 10 miles later we crossed the Menai Bridge in bright sunshine. This seemed like an important moment yet for me it was also where the shock set in. Not only were my Achilles tendons beginning to hurt in a worrying way but I had rather underestimated the size of Anglesey. I know that Britain and Australia are both islands but I have an enduring mental image of islands being about ten miles across. The reality (which included a small navigational error) left us with close to three and a half times this distance left to do. I managed to distract myself from this mental anguish and the pain in my ankles by popping painkillers and watching the pretty aeroplanes from RAF Valley practicing strafing unarmed Timorese civilians in their Hawk jets. With every plane I watched and with every maths problem I did our goal and the glory that went with it got a little closer.

In Touching the Void Joe Simpson talks about the anticlimax of getting to the summit of a great mountain, but how little he can know of anticlimax. While summiteers may be faced with their insignificance in the towering beauty of the natural world, or tortured by the relative emptiness of life after great achievement, they can scarcely begin to comprehend the anticlimax of a journey which ends by watching a man digging up muddy worms next to a Welsh ferry terminal. We had no elation or sense of achievement (there would be time later to be smug) now was time for a power shower. The B&B looked for all the world like a Happy Shopper from outside and, we were assured, contained five Austrians, but with a serious shower and an en-suite fridge it was good enough for me.

Gary Nelmes
(The Seventy-Nine public house Holyhead, October 8th 2002)

Machynlleth to Porthmadog

Machynlleth to Porthmadog
Statistics: 46 miles, Maximum speed unrecorded, 8 beers

Breakfast served by a large scary looking lady provided us with all the nutrients, if not the ambiance, required. We headed out of town on a road with alternating steep and shallow ascents. We had a short day's ride ahead of us so we decided to take a look at the Centre for Alternative Technology. The weather was dull and the cloud closed in as we reached CAT. We entered the site up a water-balanced funicular railway. Being a rainy Monday in October the site wasn't exactly packed with people but Michael Palin's introductory video managed to give us a sense of being part of a growing movement for change. The slick production was obviously designed to divest visitors of their assumptions about hippy weirdoes and (passing a couple of hippy weirdoes and a slightly mad old lady) we marched on into this brave new world. Sneering aside for a moment (don't worry it will be back in a second) and taking into consideration the speed with which we dashed round the site it was clear that the CAT had a lot to offer. From really prosaic displays of composting and organic gardening to pretty high tech energy generation techniques this would be a seriously interesting outing for anyone who suspects that there is more to life than MacDonalds (hello you bastards!) and TV. The straw bale houses fascinated me and Dave particularly liked the urine soaked straw compost (I made one of those up, can you tell which?) We left the site down the water railway, which moves at 0.5mph, waving our hands and screaming in a roller-coaster stylee. Putting on our wet weather gear we headed off up another bloody long hill. On our left was Cadir Idris (the pigmy to Llareggub's giant). The cloud hung in ragged ribbons on its sheep-nibbled flanks as we toiled up the black rain-washed road. Rounding the mountain we descended into Dolgellau and scouted for pubs. We settled on the Royal Ship Hotel and decided on a reasonable feed. Having been quite ill for the two weeks before the trip I was sure that maximum input would be good for me. Perhaps I was right but I suspect that the leaden weight in our stomachs during the afternoon was not unrelated to the huge fish platter, pasta bake, coke, tea, spotted dick, chocolate sponge and two helpings of custard that we consumed between us over lunch.

A few circuits of the town finally threw us centrifugally out towards Porthmadog. The Lôn Las Cymru route was impassable with road bikes so we took the more direct A470. Dave added a further puncture to the two I'd had on day two before we had really got going. When we did, it became clear that it was going to be a long ride on a busy road. What we didn't expect was the almost uninterrupted nature of the climbing. Many of the 'B' road's ups and downs had been evened out and the gradient was monotonous. The cloud lifted a little and by the time we got near Trawsfynydd we had a great view out over the lake to a vast castle-like structure on the other side. Sadly, the seat of Arthurian majesty turned out to be a nuclear power station but it had a strange dour beauty from a distance. The final run into Porthmadog was a scary, scary thing. Huge trucks and a break-neck descent finished in a causeway over the bay called 'The Cobb'. We checked into a restaurant that had a couple of nice and clean and well-appointed rooms. Dinner at a pub called the Australia (not Bar Oz) was passable and then we retired to the Ship for a few beers. I had an excellent Burtons, and Dave (for six years a member of CAMRA) had Tetley Dark Mild that he knowledgeably described as "dark and mild".

Builth Wells to Machynlleth

Builth Wells to Machynlleth
Statistics: 57 miles, Maximum speed 46mph, 4 beers

Breakfast wasn't bad but I still think the B&B was a bit weird. After some faffing around we eventually got away about 10am. Early cloud had burned off and was I happy? No, my bloody carts felt like they'd swelled to twice their normal size. I just had to sit down hard and try to forget about the pain. This exit from Builth Wells was a fairly long climb followed by some short rises and descents. The autumnal countryside on the back roads was fantastic. The mixed stands of trees looked like a tourist brochure for the New England fall. Sadly we had already sold our souls to the devil. At Rhayader (land of my fathers) we skipped lightly onto the A470. This large, wide 'A' Road must be minging with traffic on any week day morning but today it was quiet, wide, smooth and pleasant. I managed to settle into a rhythm and the trees passed serenely by. My reverie was rudely interrupted by the sudden appearance of a newly killed fox. Its magnificent russet fur was completely intact and the deathblow had been struck square in the face widening its jaws into a hideous Gerald Scarf gaping maw. We followed the road straight into Rhayader. There was a triathlon in progress and the traffic management looked likely to result in a fatality.

Having already pumped-up a slow flat earlier in the day I had to stop and re-inflate it again. We took advantage of the stop to snaffle down some horrible fizzy drinks and millionaire's shortbread. (Who are you looking at? We are expending 1000,000 calories a day here.) Leaving town we were back on the way of truth and light following the route along 'B' roads through undulating country towards Llanidloes. Some miles down the sunlit road we passed some merry rural types using one of those enormous electric shaver attachments on a JCB to trim hedges. "How charmingly bucolic" I thought (right up to the point where it became clear that the thhhh-duck thhhh-duck noise coming from my back wheel was caused by a large chunk of hawthorn branch attached to my tyre by two large vicious-looking thorns). A good deal of roadside cursing followed while I changed the tube.

I had already mentally prepared for lunch when we reached Llanagurig only to be legged-up by a five-mile on and off climb up to our destination. We stopped at the first pub in Llanidloes (looked OK). "Hello" I said, "do you have a menu?" The barman said they had a beef roast - that or nothing. We had beef roasts. Dave, being a man's man braved the sprouts. I being a glutton's man, ate everything including the pattern on the plate.

The centre of the town had a nice market centre corn exchange thing but we only looked briefly before heading back up that fuc*ing hill towards Machynlleth. We'd worked out that we had a sixteen-mile climb before the apex of the hill at Rhiw Fawr. SIXTEEN MILES! The country, which had offered lovely but limited views through gaps in the forest opened up to show the increasing altitude. Taking the B4518 for a mile and a half we prepared ourselves for half a dozen miles of hell. The actuality was less painful than we had imagined. Some of the sections were horribly steep but there were few false summits. Before we knew it we were shooting down the other side through clouds of midges. There were fabulous views down into the wide valley. I managed 46mph for the first time and (skin flapping) we entered Machynlleth. We stayed at the White Lion Hotel, which looked like a nice pub. I had to run the gauntlet of a lot of knob-ogling slappers as I checked in. While we ate there was a lot of alco-pop based celebration going on for the birth of young man's baby. He had become a big man to the local girls but he looked like a frightened 17 year old to me.

Cardiff to Builth Wells

Cardiff to Builth Wells
Statistics: 77.7 miles, Maximum speed 40mph, 2 beers

Our 8:30am start from Buddug's house in Cardiff ended up as a 10:00am departure full of bacon and coffee. We faffed about a little more by travelling to 'see the sea see' and dropping in to the railway station to buy our somewhat hopeful return rail tickets from Holyhead. The day was a sharp contrast to our departure on the English coast-to-coast (C2C) route that had been shrouded in a thick mist and dampened with a slow drizzle. As we cycled through Cardiff's wide sunlit streets small cottonwool clouds floated in a wide watery-blue sky. Progress started in earnest when we passed Cardiff Castle, entered Bute Park and started up the Taff Trail. The stupid little fat dogs, their smiling owners (blissfully unaware of their pet's attempts to get bisected by passing bicycles) and the dappled shadows of the trees falling on the silver river made for a most scenic, almost idyllic, atmosphere.

Out first test was the pillock-infested hill up to Castell Coch. After a very steep climb we were presented with a gothic revival castle (obviously a favourite wedding venue) and a disappearing trail. When we did locate the way forward the steep ascent proved unsuitable for our road bikes. Imagine a steep slope covered in a thin layer of dry porridge oats and laced with boulders the size of your head and you have a picture of it. This led us to make an important decision. "If there is a road (with or without picturesque dappled shade) we'll take it." Pontypridd came and went and the route continued to be generally attractive. 'County Police Station 1901', the odd nice chapel and some lovely views slipped past. Despite what my friend Chris had previously said, some of the denizens of the area also looked pleasant natured and attractive.

Lunch had been fixed for Merthyr Tydfil, and there it was duly had. We were looking for a nice cosy pub offering light grease-free food. Sadly we couldn't find a pub serving so much as a pig and lard pie so we dropped into a bakery and grabbed some supplies for an al-fresco lunch. This gave us the chance to watch the passing people of this lively market day town. To be honest lots of them were ugly and those who weren't, obviously feeling some kind of social pressure, were doing their best to make themselves so. Those dreadful haircuts with the artificially forward-shifted crowns and those nasty "do my tits look like a pair of badly stuffed cushions in this?" one-strap tops abounded.

Here, I suspect, was where the day's fun began to peter-out. Indeed, the post-Merthyr trail was something of a shock to the system. What was marked on our map as a double crowned hill with a steady climb turned out to be somewhat more challenging - although this wasn't immediately obvious. It is worth mentioning the old adage that 'the devil is in the detail' and warning potential trans-Wales cyclists that the little devils at Sustrans miss a lot of detail out of their route-elevation profiles. The Talybont-on-Usk area gave fantastic views over the valley. The gentle initial climbs backed by rising thermals were easy and the descents (sheltered from the northerly wind) were fast. So far so good, our top speed rose to 40mph and filled with enthusiasm we decided to give Brecon a miss. Ah, happy times, we were on the home leg to Builth Wells and looking forward to an easy last few miles. Oh, no no no no no, my proud beauty.

Starting at around Boughrood we began our 'easy last few miles', or as it might more accurately be described, 11 miles of living hell. While my silly grin turned to a grimace Dave looked like he was enjoying it as he steamed away up the hills. However, I remained confident that I would catch him up later using one of my normal methods:

a) finding him in a steaming heap half way up
b) engaging in a break-neck, 50mph, skin flapping, 5G descent.

I'd like to say that one of these schemes worked but after the first six miles I had to settle for keeping him in RADAR range. As a substitute I decided to cling to the abstract notion that Builth Wells sounded like a nice valley sort of town - probably with a Georgian spa hosting some kind of massage convention. With eleven miles (ELEVEN FUC*KING MILES) of almost non-stop uphill behind me I must have passed into some kind of vegetative state and as I came round I found myself rolling up the drive of The Cedars guesthouse. (Subsequently it became clear that I had done an unspecified amount of the afternoon's cycling with a flat back tyre.)

We were shown to our room and lay there on twin beds murmuring "mmmm, inaction, mmmm no cycling, mmm horizontal". When we eventually showered (the bathroom was so small that we had to do it in four shifts) and changed we stepped out into the glamour of a Builth Wells Saturday evening. Well there was certainly no Georgian spa, the pubs looked non-too-promising (there wouldn't be any work done on the farms that Sunday) and the only restaurant was full. To be fair the chippy was excellent and even I couldn't eat all the chips but on the whole I wasn't impressed. Builth Wells registered no more than 'two' on the horse/town scale and I suspected that even those equine inhabitants were incestuously related. The delights of the metropolis exhausted we thought that we'd go back to the hotel bar for a jar or five with the Patron. This closed (very politely) at 9:30pm (maybe we needed more deodorant). As I write this Dave (he's the one with the fat hairy legs) and I are propped up in our beds like Morecambe and Wise watching TV. THANKS BUILTH!

Lon Lâs Cymru

Lon Lâs Cymru is the centrepiece of the National Cycle Network in Wales. Stretching from Cardiff in the south to Holyhead in the north it encompasses the full range of 'Sustrans' cycling terrain from well made tarmac cycle lanes in flat landscapes to dramatic off road routes across exposed moor land in mountainous mid-Wales.

We decided to take four days to complete the route at an average of 62 miles per day. However, as mid-Wales is rather more challenging than the southern or northern sections of the route we did weighted the daily mileage accordingly. We also made a conscious decision not to be very purist about the route. We both ride 'race-style' road bikes and these are not suitable for some of the 'no traffic' sections marked on the Sustrans maps. Anyone wanting to stick rigorously to the route would probably want a hybrid style bike with robust rims and tyres.

We used B&Bs rather than camping and this suited us well. It reduces the amount of gear you have to carry by a factor of at least 50% (making more room for humbugs) and allows for a quick and well-fed start in the morning. On a four-day trip stopping places rather suggest themselves. We stayed in Builth Wells, Machynlleth, Porthmadog and Holyhead and were reasonably happy with them all.

A few words of warning, as with most things, preparation is the key to success. For Lon Lâs Cymru this means that you must have a reasonable bike and that you must know how to complete simple repairs. You must also be reasonably 'cycling-fit' i.e. if you are a rower or a runner you may suffer quite badly if you don't put some bike mileage in in the months before the trip. A couple of 30+ miles trips a week for a couple of months would be the minimum I would recommend. Indeed if you are over 30 and you haven't done any sustained exercise before I would recommend doing the Thames Valley Cycle Route over two days before attempting Lon Lâs Cymru.

Read our four day Lon Las Cymru diary for more details and, if you make the trip, mail us - we would love to hear about it.

Randy Bumgardner memorial post

Randy Bumgardner
There comes a point in every pub discussion when participants get round to discussing the stupid names people have given to their children. I know that these things are totally culturally and linguistically specific (no British person would call their child 'Randy' for instance) and that there is a fair chance that Gary Nelmes means something obscene in a foreign language but I think some of these are worth hearing anyway.

Randy Bumgardener
http://nde.appliedphysics.swri.edu/pipermail/nde/1997-January/003657.html

Duane Swank
http://www.marquette.edu/polisci/Swank.htm

Lawrence R. Poos
http://history.cua.edu/faculty/Poos/

Minty Clinch
http://moviepostersetc.safeshopper.com/167/5092.htm?433

Helmut Puff
http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/journals/gend/editor.htm

Richard Head
http://www.richardhead.com/

Ronald Macdonald
http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/book.asp?ref=0631204628

Willy Tan
http://members.tripod.com/SWSymphony/profile/profile.htm

Boston Rowing Marathon

The slogan on the t-shirts said "Its Just A Long Head!!". This is untrue: it's a long, long, long, long, long head (though the multiple exclamation marks, always the sign of a diseased mind, accurately convey the dementia that kicks in around the halfway mark). Most 'heads', or long distance time-trials, are 2 to 3 miles in length. The Head of the River Race, the best known such event, is held over the greater distance of 4.25 miles on the Thames between Mortlake and Putney. The fastest time, set by the GB national squad in 1989, is 16 minutes 37 seconds. By comparison, the Boston Rowing Marathon is a whopping 31.2 miles long and the record mark, posted in 1991 by an elite 8+ from the University of London, is 2 hours 59 minutes and 45 seconds.

The course follows the River Witham between Lincoln and Boston (the Lincolnshire market town that is, not the Massachusetts city). It was first rowed in 1946 by a coxed four from Boston Rowing Club, who started in their home town and finished in Lincoln "tired but triumphant" some 5 hours and 20 minutes later. Their attempt was encouraged by spectators on every bridge along the way and a crowd of 200 cheered them over the line. The bowman, Harry Chamberlain, was quoted as saying that he would "only do it again with an out-board motor on the stern", a sentiment shared by many subsequent finishers. The inspiration for the row, it was admitted (oarsmen clearly being the same then as now), was a heavy session in the bar of The White Hart Hotel.

For the next 2 years, the challenge remained as a private match for members of Boston Rowing Club but in 1949 Crowland Rowing Club asked if they could compete. It was also decided that the course should be rowed from Lincoln in order that the finish be BRC's boathouse. The fact that there was a pub right next door was merely a happy coincidence. In 1950, the event was thrown open to entries from any club and the challenge has been since been accepted by thousands of rowers and scullers from across the UK and beyond.

I can't quite remember whose idea it first was that UYBC should join this lunatic fringe, but I think its fair to say that alcohol and junior school-style taunting played their part. After a process of inversely Darwinian selection (those able to think up convincing excuses or manufacture a grandmother's funeral were excused) the line-up emerged as, from bow: Fiona Hughesdon, Ema Lesiecka, Gary Nelmes and I, the crew thus comprising York University's most attractive and fittest rowers, plus me and Gary (we may be daft but we're not stupid). This dream team was completed with the addition of the small-but-perfectly-formed Adele Watt as cox. Due to other commitments our pre-race preparations amounted to a couple of long-ish steady state paddles up and down the Ouse. 30 plus miles of continuous rowing would surely transform our scratch crew into a well-oiled rowing machine.

The big day saw York's finest head South in a manner that befitted their status and élan - crammed into a Montego Countryman with boat and blades tied to a makeshift roof rack cunningly fashioned from planks found at the back of the boathouse. Anyway, we managed to get to Lincoln without anything falling off and, after putting our boat, the 'Tony Sherlock', together and making a few nervous trips to the loo, we were ready. Eschewing a pre-race warm-up, on the grounds that the last thing we needed was to expend energy uselessly, we jumped into the boat and paddled lightly up to the start. With the memorable command from Adele of "next stroke… firm pressure for 31 miles… go!", we were off.

Conditions were ideal, pleasantly warm with only a light breeze, and the first few miles were really enjoyable. We settled into a nice rhythm, tapping along at a rating of 24, with the boat surprisingly well balanced. Though we quickly left the city behind, Lincoln's fabulous medieval cathedral continued to watch over us, apparently never receding. We reached the first significant marker, Bardney Loch eight miles into the race, in just over an hour. It was a welcome sight, even though we would have to lug the boat, because it represented the one and only chance to get out of the boat and stretch. The portage techniques on display varied from the extremely efficient to the deliberately lethargic. We saw one eight lift boat and blades together, then literally run with their load to the other side, chased by their kit-laden cox, chuck the boat in and push off in unison. The whole operation took no more than 2 minutes and was obviously something that they'd practised. Other crews took a more measured approach and used the landfall as an opportunity to eat, drink, stretch and pee. We strove for speed but were somewhat less slick than the eight, carrying the boat then returning for blades and kit. Hand on heart, if we'd had a good excuse to delay getting back into the boat for a few minutes (a loose nut, a kitten stuck up a tree, anything dammit), we would have seized it. As it was, we were back on the water within 5 minutes and, after a quick intake of liquid, we were on the move again.

We reached the halfway point of Kirkstead Bridge in around 2 hours and 10 minutes, and were still paddling well. From then on, however, things became progressively tougher. In its later stages the River Witham is extremely straight and almost dispiritingly dull. Bridges are few and far between, and there is little to indicate one's progress. The fact that the banks were higher than our heads meant that we saw virtually nothing of the surrounding country. Physically, we were starting to hurt. We had carbo-loaded for Britain in the preceding days but it is simply not possible to build up a store of glycogen sufficient for an endurance event of this intensity and duration. The energy drinks we had with us helped but we were now seriously fatigued and this was apparent in our shorter strokes and softer finishes.

Its at this stage, some 25 or so miles into the race, that I'd like to introduce, for your delectation and edification, the topic of blisters. Now blisters, together with scarred calves, buttock ache and back pain, are occupational hazards for all oarsmen - overuse injuries brought on by repetitive performance of a limited pattern movement compromising the tissues. The Boston Marathon, however, treats you to all these delights together. For hours. When your hands stick like glue to the blade handles, which are stained red, you know you have some serious blister action going on. Similarly, you come to realise that rowing seats have not, as you previously thought, been ergonomically designed by skilled modern craftsmen but fiendishly wrought by sadistic Dark Ages torturers. Only those who've done the race or have had to sit on a hard wooden pew during an overlong sermon can begin to appreciate the pain levels involved.

We had taken a small portable radio/cassette in the boat since we had thought that some upbeat tunes might take our minds off things. This didn't really work, although 'SOS' by ABBA, 'Help!' by the Beatles and 'I Get Weak' by Belinda Carlisle would all have been appropriate anthems. Nor could Adele, who is an excellent cox, really do much to help - the usual motivational calls of "its only 20 strokes to the line!" or "I can see the finish!" would have fooled no-one. And given that she had to endure for hours the sight of my (grimacing) face, not the pleasantest prospect at the best of times, you could argue that she had her own problems. I found that counting off the strokes in my head, in lots of 100, broke down the passing time into more bearable chunks. I was glad that I was at stroke because concentrating on trying to maintain a good rhythm helped to take my mind off the pain. I also knew that I couldn't stop or slacken off without everyone else seeing. There was nothing to do but grind out each stroke.

The frequent marker signs that we passed in the final stages helped a bit, providing irrefutable evidence that we were getting closer, but they also made clear exactly how far we still had to go. It was only when we passed the '3 miles to go' board that I really began to believe that we were getting near and would make it. The last mile seemed to take forever and a day, but we upped the rating and eventually came over the line looking quite spritely; an illusion that lasted only until we easied and slumped over the blades. After an age, we were able to manoeuvre the boat ashore and collapse properly. Around us, crews who had already finished were sprawled on the grass. Some looked unaccountably fresh (the bastards) but most were in a similar state to us: sweat-stained with 20,000 yard stares and blistered hands.

For the record, we finished in 4 hours and 30 minutes - winning the, erm, prestigious and fiercely competitive Senior Mixed 4+ division - but the time seemed rather less important than the fact that we had stayed the course. Of the 3 other crews in our class, 1 scratched beforehand and we never saw the other 2. They could have taken a wrong turn up one of the drainage dykes and may still be paddling on, hopelessly lost and gibberingly insane, somewhere in the Fens.

Driving back, my blisters allowed only a tentative grip of the steering wheel and I was glad that the car seats were well upholstered. Arriving home in York just before closing time, we treated ourselves to possibly the most deserved pints ever and then succumbed to the Sleep of the Just. We had planned to do York Sprint Regatta the following weekend but 5 days after the Marathon our hands still resembled those of zombies (bits of flesh hanging off à la 'Night of the Living Dead') and sitting down remained a problem. It was clear that we were in no state to compete in a regatta, and anyway, sprints weren't our thing.

Three of us did the Marathon again the following year. The words 'gluttons' and 'punishment' spring to mind.


N.B: Things to Consider if You're Thinking About Doing the Boston Marathon

1) It's a long way.
2) The scenery is lovely (at least that's what we were told - the river banks being 6ft higher than the boat we couldn't tell).
3) Oddly named villages you pass but do not view (see point 2) include Cherry Willingham, Holton Cum Beckering, Sots Hole, New York and Hedgehog Bridge.
4) Lincoln Cathedral will mysteriously follow you but don't panic - that's perfectly normal behaviour for this particular ecclesiastical edifice.
5) It's a long way.
6) Seat padding is a good thing.
7) Finger tape is a good thing.
8) Going to the loo beforehand is a good thing.
9) Check the weather forecast: a headwind all the way down the course is not a good thing.
10) It's a long way (but you get some kudos and a t-shirt, and steady state outings on your home river will never seem half as bad again).

http://www.bostonrowingmarathon.org.uk/

Ben Nevis

Bright and early on a Friday morning, we all gathered at various points around Oxford waiting to catch the Bus to Heathrow. I say all, but two of us were missing - Duncan (our driver once we got to Scotland) had, in a moment of inspired genius realised that car hire companies tend to insist you have a driving licence with you to show them, rather than to just take your word you had one so had gone home to collect his. Gary was just late and came jogging over the horizon mere seconds before the bus appeared.

The journey to Heathrow itself was uneventful, so after piling off the bus we made our way to the wrong check in queue where we waited patiently (patiently? Matt?) in line for a flight that wasn't ours before being pointed in the direction of the right queue for us to stand patiently in. As we headed for the baggage check we discovered we were behind none other than Mr Bob Geldof, who showed what a true professional he is by remaining oblivious to our pointing, staring and childish giggling.

After a flight which lived up to none of my expectations of ending early in a ball of flames or terror filled plummet, we arrived at Glasgow. Despatching Duncan and Sarah to see if their charm could get our car early proved not to be the strategic success we hoped for so with an hour to kill we headed for Starbucks and invested a not inconsiderable sum in large skinny steamed milk lattes with hazlenut syrup.

Duncan clambered into the driving seat of his formula one car and the rest of settled into the back of the people carrier we had hired as our transport to Fort William. The journey took us through beautiful scenery, an experience which closet phone geek Gary was kind enough to share with others via text message. Eventually our participation in Duncan's race driver fantasies came to an end and we arrived at our hostel in one piece. A quick wash, a quick change, a quick announcement from Duncan that he was leaving Blackwells and we were out the door and in the pub for 'grub and grog'. At around six thirty pm (ok, so maybe a bit later….) Sarah and Emily decided it was past their bedtime and headed back to the hostel where the rest of us joined them later for some Sex in the City. (Steady this is a family website. Ed.)

We awoke to find that Emily had been eaten by her duvet during the night! After a dramatic rescue, we all headed off for some food of our own and sought out a full Scottish Breakfast an apparently easy task that turned out to be a lot harder than expected - but eventually we found a hotel to load up on grease in. This done we drove - after a heated debate lead by the Pedestrian faction of our group against this decision - to the foot of Ben Nevis. (After the complicated manoeuvres required to extricate our vehicle from the tiny hotel car park…).

The weather gods were once again smiling on us, and despite all the dire warnings we had received predicting atrocious Scottish weather, the sun was almost out, the air was cool, not a rain cloud in sight…Perfect walking weather in fact. Our progress was good and we all made it up in reasonable time - I even managed it without medical assistance, which was a bonus. At the top, we admired the view - what there was of it - and ate our packed lunches as we shivered in the snow. To a chorus of mobile phone rings - damn them all - we began our descent.

It was at this point that we spotted the escapee from the local loony bin. A man with exceedingly leathery skin running (yes, running!) his way up the mountain, wearing nothing but a pair of shorts and a smile. Something for us all to strive towards…

The last hour of the journey was painful to say the least, but the sense of achievement and pride kept us going. (Well, that and the thought of all the beer that was waiting at the bottom.)

After showers and a change of clothes, we walked, limped, hobbled and very nearly crawled to The Ben Nevis for celebratory drinks and food. For some reason we seemed to amuse the locals (who I think thought the boys were gay) that shared the bar with us as we celebrated for as long as we could manage before dragging ourselves back to the hotel and the joy of Gary's tight white pant's. (That is your last warning. Ed.)

Rachel 'has anyone seen my new car' Chandler

Alps season two


The 2003 trip was to start with small climbs such as the Aiguille du Tour (Graded F) and work up to the SE ridge of the Tour Ronde (PD), possibly a longer traverse from the Torino refuge and perhaps Jungfrau (Graded PD+). The team was varying combinations of me, Matthew, James and Carl (Carl and James were doing a course with Icicle Mountaineering during the first week).

Sadly, most of our plans were undone by nature. The attempt on the Aiguille de Argentiere started off promisingly enough with an 8km morning walk along the valley from Chamonix and lunch in a sort of rock bar. The aim was to spend the afternoon gaining a couple of thousand metres and, if possible, to reach the Argentiere hut by nightfall. Initially we made pretty good progress although Matt, who had been very spritely in the morning, began to slow up a bit. We cleared the tree line and the ski lodges and things started to get a bit more wild.

The glacier had retreated and the route was totally unmarked in places. I wasted a little time on climbing an unprotected route before Matt spotted a marker going in a totally different direction. He "didn't think [the route I had been climbing] was that steep" largely because he wasn't the one climbing it. However, he was the one dodging the enormous rock which, I dislodged and which squashed my rucksack, snapped my ice axe in half and sprayed a rather good scotch all over the place.

Sadly for us night fell early because of a heavy bank of thick cloud coming in from Italy and we were forced to break out the bivvy bags about 2km short of the hut. This was the first time we had used the bags and we were not impressed. By dawn we were soaked and and freezing. What was worse, the weather showed no sign of lifting, and reluctantly I agreed to turn back. Alps one - us nil.

The Tour Noir and Mont Blanc du Tacul were out of condition because of the damage caused by a hot year with little snow and the final assault on Tour Ronde was stopped in its tracks by a 100kph wind coming in from Italy. Apart from a few minor, fairly untaxing, routes the two weeks were a bit of a wash out.

Building a Canoe


I’m not going to go through the whole process of building the boat you can learn about that by buying the book Build Your Own Canoe. Instead I will just outline the process and give a few tips for those who want to build one themselves.

What You Need
I started with completely inadequate tools, no experience and no real suitable workspace. This meant a lot of borrowing (thanks Jono), a bit of delay and some tried patience around the house (sorry chaps). However, if you don’t want to lose friends, fingers or your mind this is what you will need.

- variable speed jigsaw
- plane
- tenon saw
- spoke shave
- hammer
- four g-cramps
- face masks
- rubber gloves
- some sort of workbench
- power or hand drill (with various bits)
- dry, well ventilated workspace 6+metres long
- at least one friend

The wood, paint and adhesives materials will cost over £150 and can be picked up at any good lumberyard and/or DIY store. You might have a problem getting the glass fibre tape. If you are in the UK the chandlers in Covent Garden (London) have some. If you can't get it you can cut some from the sheets you get in car bodywork repair (WEAR A MASK & GLOVES WHILE YOU CUT IT- STUPID!) Don’t skimp on the plywood, it must be good marine quality ply - the cheap stuff may delaminate.

Cutting The Hull Panels
The book gives you fairly exact instructions about cutting out the basic shapes. However, as Gareth’s old woodwork teacher used to say “measure twice and cut once” care at this stage can prevent you owning a lot of expensive firewood. Realistically you are going to be cutting the panels out with an electric jigsaw. If you have never used a jigsaw before remember:

- use a small toothed plywood blade
- cut away from your hands
- make sure the wood is held down firmly and clear of the workbench (coffee table in my case)

Before you cut the curved sections from your plywood, mark all the measurement points you can and bend one of the ‘wangy’ bits on gunwale wood so that it touches all these known points. Then, by clamping one end in place you can use it to mark a good, elegant curved line. Cut as closely to the line as possible but if you do deviate slightly don’t worry. There is plenty of slack in the design to recover the problem later - don’t be tempted to go back and even up the edges.

Joining The Hull Panels
Scarf jointing is about the most technical job you’ll have to do in the build. Chris and Jono were invaluable in working out just how to do this. Essentially it involves planeing one edge of each of the twelve main ply sheets to a shallow angle. This allows them to be inverted over eachother and joined (making 6 longer sections) using glue and brass panel pins.

Once the panels are finished they are joined by drilling 2mm holes along the joining edges and ‘stitching’ the boat together using strong fishing line. This isn’t as easy as it sounds because the forces that build up towards the bow and stern of the bottom panels can be quite significant. Lots of swearing and mole-gripping may be required (you can’t use g-gramps on converging surfaces).

Now you can stand back and look at your boat (it will look monstrous) and begin to think about making it waterproof. The joints between the panels are covered with epoxy and glass-fibre tape (please, please, please wear a mask and gloves and open all doors and windows). This can take a while and it can also be messy. Remember that the epoxy resin will drip between the panels and out onto the floor. Doing this in the living room required a lot of newspaper, you might do well to find a more sensible location.

Fitting Out The Hull
Once the hull is basically sound the end-knees and decks are fitted. These triangular sections at each gunwale end of the boat make it start to look viable as a craft but the major transformation comes with fitting the gunwales themselves. I made ‘open’ gunwales that look much superior to the plain one. They allow water to be poured out of the boat easily and give it a much more professional finish. (I tried to describe this but the pictures are more eloquent.)

The instructions for fitting the seats are at best vague. It suggests the option of hanging them from the gunwales but this seemed pretty much impossible with open gunwales. As a result I made a half arsed attempt to glue and pin them in. This design option was tested to destruction by Dave's huge arse. Since these pictures were taken the seats have been coach-bolted through the hull.

Finishing
Finishing involves a lot of sanding, varnishing and painting but it makes the difference between a good and a bad looking boat. There will be large drips of epoxy on the outside of the boat (where it has run through). These drips are very hard and, if you intend to plane them off, use an old plane - it ruined mine. I recommend painting the bottom two panels (which are mostly under the water) and varnishing the inside and the outside of the top panels. Remember to rub any pencil marks off the wood before varnishing.

I made my own paddles too but (since Chris has managed to break them) I’m perhaps not best placed to advise on this.

The finished boat, "Sniffer" looks lovely and, despite the fact that it is slightly bent at one end, I love it.

Gary

Cider Making By David Cope

Cider Making

Gary and I started making cider for a couple of reasons, mainly because of Gary’s frustration and ire at seeing so many apples left to rot every autumn, but also because I had a lot of beer making equipment that had been sitting idle for a while. In addition, it seemed like it would be a whole lot of fun, and having drunk some truly dreadful scrumpy at various beer festivals, I felt sure we could make a better one. Making cider is in fact incredibly easy, far easier than brewing beer, although rather more labour intensive. However, the final product is well worth the effort. To make a batch of cider you will need the following:

i) A room that can be cleaned easily and that you don’t mind getting covered in sticky apple juice, as will invariably happen. We typically use a kitchen with an easily moppable floor, although a conservatory/garage would do (but it does help to have an electrical wall socket).

ii) At least one friend, possibly two, to help out. I would suggest a minimum of 3 people to share the labour and to keep each other entertained. If you have no friends, it will take you ages.

iii) A spare weekend, although we have managed to make good scrumpy when the only spare time we had were several consecutive nights after work. All in all, for a single batch of 40 pints, it will take 8-9 hours solid work.

iv) A cider press which should be cleaned with hot, soapy water.

v) A 5 gallon (40 pint) fermenting bin that will need to be sterilised.

vi) An airtight storage barrel (also 40 pints) that will also need to be sterilised.

vii) Tubing for siphoning

viii) Loads and loads of apples.

A brewing session usually begins a week in advance with Gary sending an e-mail round at work asking if anyone wants to be relieved of their troublesome apples. We then spend a couple of evenings after work going round to various peoples houses collecting said apples. Professional cider makes bang on about getting the correct mix of different apples in order to get your cider just-so, but this doesn’t bother us. Truth be told, we tend to get a fairly wide range of apples anyway, from large eating apples to small crab apples, because not everyone has the same type of apple tree in their garden. In any case, to get enough juice for 40 pints of scrumpy, you will need 3 or 4 large (and I do mean large) boxes of apples, as the juice extraction process isn’t particularly efficient (or at least ours isn’t).

On the earmarked day, start chopping the apples into fairly small pieces, say about 2cm3. The idea here is to reduce them in size to aid the mashing of the pieces into a good pulp. Obviously the size of the apple dictates how many times it needs to be chopped, some of the smaller ones can be halved, the larger ones will take much longer. Don’t be too fussy about the quality of the apples. Rotten ones should be thrown away, and maggots should be excluded, but small bits of wildlife only enhance the flavour. Expect to spend at least half the day chopping, and to cut yourself at some point. The next stage is to mash the apples into a pulp ready for pressing. The mashing breaks up the cell membranes which releases the sugars that will be turned into alcohol. For our first attempt at pulping we used a commercially available apple masher which consisted of a fairly blunt rotating blade that could be attached to a drill. To be frank it was rubbish, and after several attempts we abandoned it and ended up using the bottom of a vodka as a hammer to smash the apple pieces. This actually worked quite well, although on later batches we progressed to using Gareth’s food processor which greatly speeded up the procedure. Ideally we need a system whereby the apples go from whole to pulped in one simple move, but we have yet to come up with one. I’m convinced that using a big (meat) mincer is the answer to our prayers, but finding a cheap, industrial sized mincer (spotlessly clean, of course) is another matter. For those who want to make barrels and barrels of cider, mashers are available that can sit on top of the press. You then simply tip the apples in the top, turn the handle that macerates the apples, and the pulp falls into the press. No such attachment is available for our small press, however.

The press we have (others are presumably no more than modifications on it’s basic design) consists of a cast iron tripod base with a two foot long threaded rod welded to it, and a detachable cylinder of loosely fitted wooden slats kept in place by a couple of iron bands. The cylinder of slats sits around the rod and the pulped apples are poured in until they reach the top. This cylindrical mass of pulp is now called a called a cake. Two semi-circular pieces of wood fit around the rod and inside the slats. A couple of square, wooden spacers sit on top of these, and finally a nut that threads onto the rod goes on top of the spacers. The nut can then be screwed down the rod, the pulp is compressed and the juice is forced out between the slats. The iron base has a lipped groove that collects the cider and directs it to a mouth in the lip where the juice can be collected and poured into the fermenting bin. Some small bits of apple will also be forced out of the slats, but these can either be skimmed off the juice once it is in the bin, or left in and filtered out once the fermented juice is transferred to the barrel. The cake can be topped up with more pulp as and when, but eventually there will be no more juice forthcoming, the cake will have to be removed, and the process started again. We can get 40 pints of juice from ~5 cakes. Once all the pressing has been finished, remember to wash all parts of the press thoroughly using hot, soapy water. The press needn’t be sterilised like the fermenting bin and the barrel.

Once all the juice is collected, it should be kept in the fermenting bin for about a week. The fermenting bin must be sterilised thoroughly to prevent outside bacterial or yeast infections from spoiling the cider. We use Chempro SPD which is essentially a weak bleach and readily available from all brewing suppliers. Several batches of our cider have been made over several consecutive nights, with juice being gradually added to the fermenting bin, but the quality of these batches was always just as high as those made in a single day. When the juice is in the bin, natural yeasts that are present in the skin of the apples will start fermenting the sugars in the solution, so there is no need to add any extra yeast. The conversion of sugar to alcohol releases a lot of carbon dioxide, so the juice is most likely to ‘bubble’ and be covered with a particularly scummy head. After about a week all the sugar will have been turned to alcohol. This endpoint is recognisible because the juice will finish ‘bubbling’. The ‘cider’ is then ready to be barrelled.

The barrelling is a fairly straight forward manoeuvre, simply siphon the cider from the fermenting bin into a previously sterilised barrel, spilling as little as possible. A good, pressurised, airtight barrel, preferably with a valve to allow built up gas to vent, is what you want, and they are available from all good brewing suppliers. The cider can also be bottled, although I speak from bitter experience when I say sterilising and thoroughly rinsing 40+ bottles is not a job I wish to repeat in the near future. Remember to also sterilise any tubing you use to do the siphoning. If the fermenting has been particularly successful, a thick layer of yeast will be left on the bottom of the bin. If you are worried that the cider isn’t alcoholic enough, you can always add some sugar to the barrel before siphoning in the cider. Although the majority of the yeast will remain in the bin, some will be transferred into the barrel during the siphoning and it will work on this sugar converting it into more alcohol and making the cider stronger. Purists no doubt frown on this practise, but we always do it just in case the initial fermentation wasn’t particularly successful. Also, even if there were enough alcohol already, the extra sugar will pep it up a little more. In order to make sure the sugar is sterile, always dissolve it in some boiling water first, and then wait for this hot, sugary solution to cool before adding it to the barrel. Once all the cider is in, put on the cap making sure it is nice and tight.

And there you have it, 40 pints of prime scrumpy ready for quaffing (unless you added some sugar to the barrel in which case it will take another week to ferment). However, as with most things, and if you can bear to leave it alone, the cider will greatly improve over time. I would wait at least a minimum of 6 weeks before trying it. Cider was traditionally made in the autumn to be drunk the next summer, so if you can bear to leave it months rather than weeks you will find the flavour and aesthetic qualities of the brew will improve, so that it no longer looks (or tastes) like a dodgy urine sample. Plus, cider is very much a summer drink. With a hot sun beating down, the thwack of leather on willow, and a lassie called Rosie by your side, the whole experience will be improved immeasurably

With some pride, I have to say our cider has been better than we could have hoped for when we began, and that with every batch we become more competent and recognise facets of the process that can be improved. For those who think Strongbow isn’t possibly as good as it can get, give it a go, and I’m sure you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

If you’ve had a go at making cider, tell us of your exploits. Or, invite us round to sample some of your scrumpy. We promise not to drink it all.

Hay-on-Wye to Hereford by Canoe

This was intended to be one of those all inclusive non-threatening type trips. Nobody was supposed to get wet or tired or eaten by crocodiles during the course of our two day excursion.

The plan was to take some tents, a change of clothes and our swimming things and to canoe down the fast flowing river Wye from Hay-on-Wye to Hereford, stopping along the way to camp and sample the local delights (largely beer). Sadly (and we have done this trip twice) we were slightly undone by circumstance.


This is a tale of foot and mouth, wet underwear, a certain amount of hard work and a single mump.

I hatched this plan because I had never been on the Wye or spent much time canoeing. Also, thirty-odd miles over two days looked like a nice achievable target. There was the prospect of a fair bit of help from the current and some fantastic views of the Black Mountains.

I managed to convince Chris, Nick, Judy, Becky and Emma that this would be a good idea and pressed on with the organisation. I booked a campsite near Hay and three 'Old Town' canadian canoes from the nice people at Celtic Canoes. They agreed to rent us the canoes, paddles, life jackets and kit barrels, and to pick us up from our 'final destination' (I suspect they didn't have much confidence that we'd make Hereford). Judy agreed to drive so we were all organised for an early Saturday start.

Our first problem became apparent when Chris and Emma arrived as arranged on Friday evening. He isn't always in peak condition (I think it is over-training) but his grey pallor, rasping tone and lumpy neck did not augur well for a weekend of manly (personly) activity. A brief examination had him consigned to the sanatorium at Nelmes Towers with a confirmed case of mump (a second mump was never really identified) and we six were now five.

Saturday dawned bright and promising and we were off - shooting down the A40 as close to light speed as a Peugeot 205 will allow. Past the upper class gals school at Cheltenham we went and off into the dangerous bandit country of the English/Welsh border region. The Sons of Glyndwr were no doubt monitoring our progress for signs of imperial expansionist ambition but, being a stouthearted bunch, we reached Hay in fine style.

The hairy chappie from Celtic Canoes was there to meet us and we were soon equipped with a full set of bits and pieces. Our gear was stowed in some nice little green barrels that betrayed a former life as spicy Indian food holders and I could always be sure of getting to a Tunnocks bar or my camera by opening the one marked 'Lime Pickle'. All that remained was to reassure Judy and Emma (now in a boat together due to the lack of Mr Major) that it was almost impossible to fall out of a flat-bottomed Old Town canoe.

Our first task after pushing off down the river under the shadow of the bridge was to negotiate a small narrow 'rapid' between some rocks and to paddle off into a wider bit of river beyond. Becky and I did this and Harris followed. We swung the boats around and waited for Judy and Emma. They slewed round the head of the little rapid and stopped. 'Bugger', I thought, and started to paddle back to offer advice. Emma stood up to push the boat off the rock on which it was stuck and the boat began to slide slowly sideways down the little water chute. One minute it was upright, the next it, its luggage and its crew were bobbing down the river upside down on diverging courses.

When we fished the barrels and our damp colleagues from the water they, and their gear, were thoroughly soaked (I suspect that someone hadn't screwed the top on the Garum Massala properly). I felt like a swine for underestimating people's ability to get unnecessarily wet in such circumstances and Nick and Becky had to share out their copious stores of dry knickers and sweatshirts (I never did find out why Harris had brought dry knickers). There followed an early lunch, an unscheduled visit to a supermarket and a lot of messing around.

Eventually underway again we found that another of my assumptions was a little flawed. There was very little water in the river and the flow was almost non-existent. We had to paddle if we expected to get anywhere and paddle we did. Despite this, Judy and Emma's boat got stuck on a particularly shallow bit of river bed and, being once bitten, they refused to get out of the boat until I had cut my way through chest high undergrowth and risked the raging torrent to push them off the shoal (am I exaggerating here?).

Finally we reached the lovely little village of Bredwardine and camped under the shadow of the old bridge. The evening was warm and the rurality was quite palpable. There really was a whole heap of nothing for miles around and it was quite magical. We found a pub a tired stagger up the road and had a good hearty dinner and a few pints of beer. As the tales of the fishermen started to meld into one and the barman called last orders we made our way back to the tents. I fell into a deep slumber and awoke with the sun through the canvas and the sound of farm animals close by.

The break-down of tents and the packing of gear was not the most efficient I have ever seen (actually it was a sort of limp chaos) but we eventually left, sliding away into the bright clear morning with a yellow sun glinting off the water. We passed Monnington-on-Wye and Preston-on-Wye and stopped for lunch near the bridge at Sollers. Some crabby unreasonable old landlord had erected a sign telling us that we were not allowed to be there but hell - you have to stop somewhere. The countryside was beautiful and some of the red slab-like rock formations in the deep clear water were very impressive. We saw buzzards and snipes, swans and some large brown trout. And some golf balls. We even stopped for a swim on a bend in the river.


After a while it became clear that there really was nowhere to buy anything to eat. In fact there was very little civilization at all. Indeed, Judy's abiding memory of the whole trip seems to be the near starvation she experienced during the last 10 miles or so of the route.


Finally we neared Hereford and hauled it gradually towards us with tired limbs. The final mile or so seemed to last an age but at last we were landing the boats by the bridge under the shadow of the cathedral and hauling them up to the park above. We took it in turns to look around the medieval town before hauling the boats onto the trailer and heading back in Mr Celtic's old Sherpa. It was a flash back to every school trip I have ever been on and I loved it.

This first trip was great success and I was impelled to do it again. Sadly the second trip was during the whole foot and mouth crisis and having both feet and mouths we were unable to stop for over twenty miles. Emma cried sitting on a barrel and we haven't done much canoeing since (because people have stopped answering my calls) but I enjoyed it anyway.

I have a few top-tips for anyone intending to do this trip.

· Celtic Canoes provide a good, friendly, reliable service
· Check that you have secured your barrels properly and put your gear in bags
· Take food and a stove as there nowhere after Hay-on-Wye to buy things
· Arrange camping ahead if you can as sites are rare

MONT BLANC DAY FOUR: "GOODNESS ME, THAT IS A LONG WAY DOWN"

At this point my note on Harris's snoring becomes relevant. We retired to bed soon after dinner with the aim of being on the face by 01:30. Having slept so little the previous three evenings I left the business of waking to Harris. I placed by watch (with the alarm set) about 20cm from Mr Harris's head. Then, stuffing my ears with damp tissue paper I retired to bed. Sadly, I had neglected to invest in the 21-gun salute version of my Timex sports watch and he failed to rise at the appointed hour. We eventually woke as the last denizens of our dorm were leaving and had to rush to make breakfast by 01:30. It was probably 02:40 by the time we had reached the bottom of the face and a long line of head-torch lights were already pinpricking the mountainside. They looked for all the world like a group of aspirant celestial bodies climbing to reach the magnificent black heavens that spread, star-studded, above us.
Slowly, almost imperceptibly from where we were, the little lights inched across the terrible white space. The trail was reassuringly clear (there must have been at least 50 people above us) but the passage of so many boots has seriously degraded the snow and ice. However, by 04:30 we stood on the shoulder of the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul and, silently passing off the summit as an indulgence we could not afford, we pressed on down into the col and up to the slopes of Mont Maudit. This was another frightening prospect. As we snaked up the steep face we, and the Scandinavian party to our front, became stuck behind a party of young Brits. We could hear, although not see, at least a couple of young men trying to belay and coax a couple of scared young women through the very steep snow chute which formed part of the last 100m of the ascent. An impatient Franco-Italian finally broke ranks from behind us and went up alongside. Ten minutes of chaos were finally relieved when we reached a section of fixed rope pitoned into the rock and followed them to the summit.
Mont Maudit had sapped a lot of energy but as we crossed its shoulder the unmistakable dome of Mont Blanc came into view. The Plough was still visible in the eastern sky as we descended into the col and an ember-red line on the horizon signalled the approach of dawn. The contours of the massif became clearer and our head torches became unnecessary. The descent involved an exposed leftward traverse across a 70° slope, which fell away several hundred metres into a crevassed valley. Nick proved less than enthusiastic and was particularly cautious where small ribs of rock, running perpendicular to the path, had to be negotiated. By the time the col was reached Mont Blanc was a warm pink on its eastern side and a grey-white on its west. From the Mur de la Cote the summit appeared to be a 100m away at most but we had come to know and distrust these impressions. Indeed the map shows that we were a horizontal kilometre away from, and over 400 vertical metres below the summit.
Our progress was getting slower despite the easier terrain. At over 4000m above sea level limbs become heavy and breathing more difficult. As our summit clothing testifies it was now also intensely cold. The summit dome was overcome slowly with sometimes as few as 40 paces between pauses. Every turn seemed to promise an end to the ascent and to disappoint by presenting yet another twist in the path. However, at 09:15, with some climbers already beginning to retrace their route to the Cosmique, we stood on the broad summit and looked around us. Only here, where nothing overlooks you, can you fully appreciate the height of the mountain and the grandeur of the scenery. We were almost four vertical kilometres above the valley floor we had left four days before and 4807m above sea level. This is the highest point in Western Europe. Above us the sky blackened in a way it never does at lower altitudes and to all sides the snow-capped peaks were spread before us. Away in the distance we could see Gran Paradiso (our training climb) and below us Cormiour and Chamonix were invisibly small in the seemingly tiny folds of the valley. We took some photographs, ate an inadequate lunch and started down the precipitous Bosses Ridge, which marks the end of the ordinary route. Harris, once more displaying his dislike for exposed positions, proved slower than me on this section. However, once we reached the Dôme de Gouter and turned right towards the Grand Mullet hut he became a tower of strength (while I became a slightly sulky dead weight). Indeed, I had to be eased and cajoled down the seemingly endless and increasingly wet snow slope of the glacier.
Our crampons began to ball-up and a slip seemed to come every five minutes. The scale of the mountains continued to play its tricks and frustration increased as the hours slipped by. After what seemed like an eternity we reached the Grand mullet hut high on its seemingly impossible rock. We considered a night there but decided to press on across the smaller glaciers that flow down the mountainside parallel with the Grand Mulet. Reaching the first of these we stopped and looked at each other. This looked scarily like a trap we had walked into before. The twisted and scattered towers of ice tumbled upon each other showing no obvious path. We sat down for dried fruit and a conference and saw, in the middle distance, a figure striding towards us. The figure finally resolved itself into a young local man who offered to lead us across. This he did at a frightening pace. We virtually ran, with full packs and crampons, across two glacial streams. When we were in sight of the cable car station he seemed simply to disappear like some kind of willo-the-wisp. Staggering up the medial moraine of a long dead glacier we stumbled into the Plan de Midi station just in time to catch the last car down to Chamonix. We stood amongst the clean tidy holidaymakers and cable car alpinists and realised that we probably stank. However, as we swung away from the station and Chamonix came closer I got a warm sense of achievement and elation. Although we had made some terrible mistakes we had done something that felt good.